Once upon a time, there was a little girl called Carmen who travelled the world with her dad Vittorio, a guide always under her arm and the dream to have a hotel as beautiful as the ones they were staying at. Relais & Chateaux – L’Albereta is Carmen Moretti’s dream come true. Today, this gorgeous hotel, which opened twenty years ago, is one of the most renowned 5-star hotels in Italy and part of the French Relais & Chateaux Association.
RELAIS & CHATEAUX – L’ALBERETA: THE MAISON
Relais & Chateaux – L’Albereta shares with its guests the charm of its history and traditions also thanks to its strong connection to the Franciacorta region. L’Albereta entered the Relais & Chateaux network in 1998 with 10 rooms. Today it features 57 suites and bedrooms, each with its own style and details. You can choose from Classic, Superior or Deluxe rooms or pick a Suite Lake Tower, a Suite Contaldi Tower or a Bellavista Grand Suite. But if I was to go back I would surely book the Cabriolet Suite, a magical room where the roof above the bed opens to the sky showing you the starred sky. No doubts.
FOOD AT RELAIS & CHATEAUX – L’ALBERETA
L’Albereta was associated to Gualtiero Marchesi, the patriarch of Italian haute cuisine, who was the head of the restaurant for twenty years. Today, Executive Chef Fabio Abbatista proposes a cuisine based on the excellence of ingredients, most of which come directly from the hill where L’Albereta is located: here are bred exquisite chickens and rabbits, while vegetables, aromatic herbs and fruits are produced by the family vegetable garden and picked up every day by the kitchen team.
There are three restaurants at L’Albereta, each with its own identity and purpose.
Opened in 2014, LeoneFelice is a fine restaurant, with a contemporary décor made of the best Italian design where Executive Chef Fabio Abbattista, coming from Apulia proposes a cuisine that mixes the flavours of the south with the taste of the north in outstanding combinations and surprising dishes. The name of the restaurant is a tribute to the old guardian and gardener, Leone. He has always taken care of this house and garden with love and joy.
If you wish to enjoy the unforgettable experience of discovering what really happens behind the scenes of a high-end restaurant you can book the Chef’s Table. A private table in the heart of the kitchen where the brigade alongside the head chef will cook a specific 6-course menu for you and your friends. The Chef Fabio Abbattista will accompany you during the entire experience sharing the ideas behind each dish and the products used to create them.
The Chef’s Table of LeoneFelice can accommodate a party from 2 to 8 people (120 euro per person, wines excluded). Book far in advance since the waiting list is months long.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday – 7.30pm to 10.30pm
Tel. +39 030 7762603
Set in the oldest room of this XIX villa and decorated with ancient frescos and Latin quotes about the art of hospitality, the VistaLago Bistrò offers its guests outstanding views over the Lake Iseo and the surrounding hills.
Open from 7.30am to 1.00am, it’s perfect from the breakfast as well as for cocktails before and after dinner. Throughout the day it proposes delicious snacks, a special selection of typical Italian and regional dishes for lunch and dinner as well as Sunday brunch and afternoon tea at five.
So, if you are feeling peckish after a golf match, a ride on the lake or a cycle on the hills that surround the area, the VistaLago bistro is open all day and you’ll surely find something to satisfy both your stomach and palate.
Open from 7.30am to 1 am.
The kiosk La Filiale combines a menu entirely dedicated to Franco Pepe’s pizzas with outstanding Franciacorta wines. His world-famous pizzas are light and produced with hand-made dough and local ingredients.
The latest addition to L’Albereta, La Filiale is an informal restaurant, perfect to start out your evening with a “pizza a libretto” accompanied by a glass of wine or a cocktail.
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 7 PM, Sunday from 12 PM to 3 PM and from 7 PM (closed for lunch on August). Take-Away available.
ESPACE CHENOT HEALTH WELLNESS SPA
Relais & Chateaux – L’Albereta offers health and fitness programmes for those who are looking to detox and get fit in gorgeous settings. On top of specific and personalised training programmes, there is also a tailored food menu so that you don’t have to worry about calories and ingredients.
For more information, click here
RELAIS & CHATEAUX – L’ALBERETA: THE WINE & THE VINEYARDS
Franciacorta is a region of rolling hills extending from Mount Orfano (south of Rovato) to the southwest area to the shores of Lake Iseo, and from the river Oglio on the western border of the city of Brescia in the east. The soil made of glacial moraines consists of gravel, sand and limestone, drains well making it ideal for the cultivation of grapes and winemaking. The weather is mild and constant due to its location south of the foothills of the Alps and the tempering presence of large lakes making it perfect for nature and agriculture. In fact, since the Middle Ages, Franciacorta has boasted an intense cultivation of vineyards, olive groves and vegetable gardens. Consequently, the nobles choose this area to build their magnificient country residences. Today, Franciacorta features an incredible landscape with towers, castles, palaces and villas as well as rural churches and abbeys, making it the perfect destination for a road trip or a bike ride.
The first appearance of the name “Franzacurta” can be traced back to 1277, where it appears in the municipal statute of Brescia as a reference to the area south of Lake Iseo. Franzacurta or Franzia Curta was then an important area for the supply of wine to the city of Brescia. The name derives from the fact that here tax was not paid here “corte franca” (AKA nothing to do with France!)
For information about ideal Franciacorta and exploring the region, please visit the website of the Association La Strada del Franciacorta.
During our The Art of Wine Living tour organised by Relais & Chateaux, we had the opportunity to visit two famous wineries belonging to the Moretti family and it was a great opportunity for me to learn more about Franciacorta’s wine and its production process.
At Bellavista, they use time-proven cultivation methods, which comply with the rhythms of nature and do not try to cheat it with any artificial help. The privilege of the right vineyard exposures, mass selection and manual harvest and selection (vineyard by vineyard, row by row) are some of the essential elements that make Bellavista’s wines unique in the world.
The fermentation takes place in small white oak casks where the wine refines its Franciacorta character. The re-fermentation happens in bottles set in their vast cellars at a constant temperature of 13°C and then silent refinement over long years (more than six sometimes).
Here, manual work is still at the center of the production of wine and in fact they are one of the very few winery which hasn’t adopted a giro pallet but instead have hired an incredibly agile and fast guy who can turn 120 bottles in 20 seconds (don’t ask me how!!) for a total of 7000 bottles.
Bellavista Winery, Carmen Moretti’s family business uses the Leone grapes to produce 1000 bottles yearly of a pure Chardonnay that is unique in the world and can only be found here.
“Imperfections aren’t weaknesses, they are our strength and uniqueness” Mattia Vezzola – aenologo at Bellavista
Among the various Riserva wines, there is also a recent experiment of wine which is resting in 9-liter bottles made of Murano glass.
The name is a synthesis of the ancient history of Franciacorta and its vocation for outstanding agriculture. In 1500, when the Venetian Republic was at the height of its splendour, Franciacorta produced food and wine destined for the tables of princes, kings and rich merchants. For Franciacorta, the beautiful city of Venice was the market of choice for introducing its wines.
One of the many quarries in the area gave rise to the Biasca brickyard, the old building that houses the Contadi Castaldi winery today. When the Franciacorta region was at the peak of its development in the 1980’s, Vittorio and Mariella Moretti decided to convert the brickyard into a winery. Its large spaces and long tunnels where the bricks were fired proved to be the perfect place for ageing Franciacorta vintages and welcoming wine lovers.
Contadi Castaldi is the only winery that owns winegrapes all over the Franciacorta territory. It was a passion for the art of innovation that pushed their wine specialists to search the Franciacorta region to find the most evocative vineyards and the most passionate winegrowers.
About Relais & Châteaux
Relais & Châteaux is an exclusive collection of 540 of the finest luxury hotels and gourmet restaurants in 60 countries. Established in France in 1954, the mission of the Association is to divulge its unique art of living in the world by selecting exceptional structures with an unrivalled tradition and heritage.
Relais & Châteaux is also a family of hoteliers and Grands Chefs from all over the world who share their passion and personal commitment to give their Guests moments of exceptional harmony. Choosing Relais & Châteaux is choosing an unforgettable celebration of the senses. The signature of Relais & Châteaux reflects this ambition:
“EVERYWHERE IN THE WORLD, UNIQUE IN THE WORLD”
Notes: I was a guest of Relais & Chateaux “The Art of Living” press trip – all views are my own. As always.